This watchtower is smack in the middle of Hpa An. These is where you can find buses and shared taxis heading for Mae Sot. We got a shared taxi for 8,000kyat. Typical Asian, the locals will give up their seats to foreigners. They paid the same price (sometimes even more expensive) but they will willingly give up their comfortable seat for a cramped squatting space at the back.
It's not a one way street every other day anymore. Buses and shared taxis heading for Mae Sot are always available. It's a four hour ride. The border closes at 8pm so budget your time well.
Good bye Myanmar! Hello Thailand! Photo Credit: Dominik M. Ramík
Upon reaching the town, you can walk to the border, have your passport stamped and then walk on foot across the bridge.
Hpa-an is a small town but it is actually the capital of Kayin/Karen State in Myanmar, Burma. with three main tourist attraction.These are the:
1. Saddar Cave
2. Kawt Ka Taung Cave
3. Bat Cave
There's also a newly developed climbing site which is at Bayint Nyi Cave. However, I didn't stop by this town for this. I heard that I can actually sleep with monks at Mt. Zwegabin. There was differing travelers tale on the internet. Some said it's possible while others say it's not. I just decided to take the risk and climb Mt. Zwegabin! What's a two-hour climb anyways?
From the jetty, I paid a tuktuk to take us to Mt. Zwegabin for 5,000kyat or 5USD. It was almost an hour ride but the sites along the way were beautiful. There are rice paddies and haystacks and unique architecture.
The road to the place was surreal. We passed through hundreds, if not thousands of Buddha's before we reached the main entrance. I wonder how many years it took them to build the place or are the Buddha's a work in progress? We didn't pay any fee at all to explore the place.
There are two main access points to Mt. Zwegabin. One can start climbing from either the East or the West side. I was dropped at the West Side and exited the same way as well. Good thing because the locals said that the East Side is steeper.
I was feeling very positive at the beginning of the hike. Lonely Planet and blogs say it was only a two hours hike and since I'm not fit, I guesstimated it might take me three hours to accomplish the feat. It wasn't as easy as I thought. I think it took me four hours to reach the summit as I would often sit and stop and whine along the way. Apparently, the two-hour climb is not for people who are carrying a 15-kilo backpack while hiking under the heat of the mid-day sun!
I've always thought that climbing a mountain is the most difficult part because you are going against gravity. From prior experience, I always like the descent because I could just run down and it's all over. It seems quicker. I was so wrong! Going down on steep concrete steps with a heavy load is so much more difficult and different. Your knee suffers a lot.
I took the road less traveled with paths covered in leaves. It took me through a forest with lots of monkeys. I felt like I was going through a haunted forest as you can hear empty water bottles being thrown and other weird noises along the way. I half imagined going through my monkey nightmare in Subic Bay again. Being attacked by monkeys and getting ebola is not part of my bucket list .
Along the way, you will be climbing with or meeting pilgrims on their way back. The women are in skirts, holding on to their beautiful sandals. The men are in their traditional longyis. You will also be meeting monks along the way. All of them are barefooted and smiling. Say "Minglaba" to them and they will happily answer you back.
When I reached the top, I asked the monks if I can stay for the night. They said yes (thankfully!) but I had to give 5000kyat or 5USD as a donation. I got an orange yarn on my wrist with some incantations as proof of donation.
The view from the top is breathtaking (which is expected as all my breath was taken away from me during the climb.) But seriously, you can see how flat the land is from the top. It's like a 3D map scaled to size! It was so beautiful and I felt so small yet blessed!
God regaled me again with a beautiful sunset. If I did the ascent and descent in one day, I won't be able to see this but I was so blessed that my trip from Mawlamyine to here was all perfectly timed.
I've read that I can buy food here. I think they sold me leftovers but beggars can't be choosers. They also sell warm soda. Food is more expensive here, obviously, as they have to carry it on their back on foot to the top.
You can also spend some time chatting with the monks and learn about their religion and the Burmese people or even about anything. I met one who speaks good English.
We were given the special rooms it seems. In this area, there are two rooms and two bathrooms. It's simple and basic with a twin bed and one electric fan. The tin door makes you feel you are inside a can. You can open it up to let the cool breeze in at night.
Locals are usually billeted at the prayer room where the sleeping arrangement is communal.
I have no idea what torture lies ahead in this long and winding road. But taking treks reminds you that no matter how rough things get, there is always rest and happiness at the end. And for me, finishing one single trek is already a huuuge achievement!
These people are climbing barefoot and they have a smile on their faces. While I was surly. I hope I made their day.
The downhill walk was crazy. My knee had to take my upper body weight, backpack included and the pull of gravity didn't even help. It reminded me of the 24-hour adventure races I used to join and the pain that came after. It broke me. It was sweat and tears and thankfully no bloodshed but it was definitely a walk to remember. It reminded me the strength I have inside!
BTW, tuktuk back to Hpa-an on a motorcycle bike was 2,000kyat (~2USD) each but it was a balancing act. If you need help on where to go, you can ask the motorcycle driver to drop you off at the Soe Brothers. The old man there is so friendly that he will gladly point you out to the right direction even if you are not staying in their hotel.
P.S. We met a monk there who has just arrived. He said he was going to spend the rest of his life on top of the Mt. Zwegabin. Didn't the Bible say that it is not good for man to be alone? I wonder how he will cope with loneliness. Will he ever think what his life would be like if he took another road to travel? How many days and nights did it take to make up his mind? What pros and cons did he weigh? Is this truly his life's purpose? How do you know what your life's purpose is? It must take a strong willpower and conviction to make such a lifetime decision.
There are two ways to get to Hpa-an from Mawlamyine-by bus or by boat. I went to Mawlamyine with the sole intention of taking a boat to Hpa-an. There were some kinks along the way as it was low season like the boat won't leave until there is a minimum of three persons booking it. Thankfully the hotel I was staying in figured everything out in the end and that's how we got our boat ride to Hpa-an!
Mawlamyine to Hpa-an by boat is worth 10,000kyat or 10USD. We left the hotel at 8:30 am for the jetty but we kindda went jetty hopping. We left Mawlamyine at 10:30am and arrived at Hpa-an at 1pm. I suggest you bring water and snacks for the ride. (As a Yolanda girl, I know how it is to run on empty and I definitely don't like the feeling. Hangry?!)
There's not much to see along the way really but that is just me. I'm kindda used to travelling by boat so things that may not be interesting for me is interesting for you. However, I got a lot of riverine sketches along the way, which was good. It was also a nice change of pace.
It was also at this point in our journey that I got into thinking that adventures are actually self-inflicted pain. And sometimes, I would even pay for that pain like trekking with a heavy backpack because it gives you a different kind of rush and satisfaction at the end.
The silty river and bridge and paya. Photo credit: Dominik M. Ramík
Mawlamyine is the capital of the Mon State. The lifestyle is too slow for an urban area but too fast to be rural. Just my perfect laid back town. The colonial houses lining up the main streets has a charm of its own. It is no wonder that Rudyard Kipling and George Orwell has fallen in love with this place and has used it as a backdrop for some of their literature.
If you are looking for a party or an adventure, this place is not for you. If you are looking for peace and quite, this maybe a good pit stop for you. It's also a great place to stop before heading out to Hpa-an.
So, if you are in Mawlamyine and looking for activities to do, here are my suggestions:
For great views, book into a hotel facing the Mekong river. From the balcony, you can observe beautiful sunsets. You can also people watch while eating your breakfast.
There is a free breakfast. It includes powdered ready mix coffee, banana, egg, two slices of bread, margarine and jam. The view of the brown river with emerald isles and the streets below was great though. There was not much traffic in the area.
I stayed at the Breeze Hotel for 7USD a night. It was a twin bedroom with thin walls and an old rickety fan. Bathroom is shared. It almost feel like a boarding house in the Philippines. There was only one socket so bringing an extension wire really helps when you backpack.
The old man who serves as the receptionist is really nice. He arranged our trip to Hpa-an by boat.
Mawlamyine is ripe in history as the first capital of British Burma. In fact, there is one part of the city that is called "Little England" because it once has a sizable Anglo-Saxon community that has since dwindled down.
Walk through the side streets and discover tiny surprises. The houses here have beautiful architectural designs. I love old buildings. They have so much character and stories to tell!
I saw unfamiliar caged animals and a tiny clinic with an interesting pharmacy. There were also these tiny home restos that served unique food and drinks. The locals were nice enough to engage conversations with.
I'm not a Catholic but I am familiar with the Catholic prayers and mass so it was interesting to follow the songs and prayers even if it was said in a different language.
I was mostly busy checking out the details on the women's clothes and the flowers on their hair and the veils and all that. The veil reminded me of Lola. She would wear one when we go to church. Each mass we attended as well as each church we went to was unique. I think I'm now putting Visita Iglesia as part of my to-do list when traveling.
"If you love me, it is natural to know me. If you love God, you would want to know Him. Do not say you are not interested in spirituality and eternal life."-D.
5. Take a day trip to Shampoo Island or Ogre Island
Too bad we didn't get to visit Shampoo Island or Gaungse Kyun. Spring waters from this island was historically used for the annual royal hair-washing ceremony. If you want to see this island, you can arrange a boat with the hotel or go to the jetty and haggle yourself.
All this writing makes me want to pack up my bag and see a new place again...
