Limasawa is cheaper than Kalanggaman with more places to explore! But don't take my word for it, experience it yourself!

Limasawa has made its mark in history by being recognized by a Philippine Law as the place where the first Catholic mass in the country was held. Although, this claim is quite controversial as there are proofs that point out to Butuan as the real deal.

This is what we know is true:

• The mass happened on an Easter Sunday way back on March 31, 1521 
• Ferdinand Magellan's fleet was made up of three ships from the original number of five and 186 men out of 270 landed on the island
• It was celebrated by Father Pedro de Valderrama

According to one of Magellan's biographer, the short visit to the island from March 28 to April 4, 1521 was "the happiest most restful interlude to an otherwise interminable succession of physical, mental and spiritual struggle to remain afloat". During this trip, the captain-general and Rajah Siago or Kalambo (some text refers to him as Siain, Siani, Siaui, and Siaiu) did the casi casi or blood compact to signify brotherhood and goodwill. (Good thing the concept of HIV/AIDS and other blood-borne diseases was not yet discovered at that time!)

You may wonder how these band of people from different races understood the Filipino's. It is said that Magellan's staff, Enrique spoke Malay and through this, the conquistadors were able to communicate with the locals. Malay was then the commonly spoken language in Southeast Asia. It's like English in contemporary times.

There are a couple of theories on how the island got its name. The least known one but supported by pieces of evidence points out that Magellan or Fernão de Magalhãis named the island Mazaua after Massawa, a famous port of entry to the Red Sea now known as Eritrea where he was once part of an armada blocking trade ships from gaining entry to this port. Masawa in Butuanon means light. Pigafetta wrote in his logbook that "we had seen a fire on an island the night before, we anchored near it."

The popular explanation on how the island was named says that when the Spanish arrived the locals told them that the Rajah (king) of the island has five wives which in local language translates to lima asawa. However, Pigafetta is said to be a lexicographer so he must be a stickler when it comes to chronicling words. Magellan, as mentioned above, is familiar with the name Mazaua. And finally Raja Siaiu (aka Siago), the king of Mazaua had only one wife who was christened as Lisabeta in Cebu. If you are familiar with Filipino myths and legends and how things are named, this may tale of having five wives can be included there.


Whether Limasawa is the Mazaua referred to by Magellan and his crew is controversial and debatable. If old accounts and translations of these accounts will be carefully examined, it is said that Limasawa and Mazaua do not share the same "name, latitudes, shape, size, distance, the direction of the isles, description of its houses, agriculture, slope of the mountains, etc." How could Magellan's safe shore turn out to be East Limasawa with its lee shore where no big boats can possibly anchor? However, huge cruise ships have anchored off the island in recent years. Also, in Pigafetta's map, today's Limasa was labeled as Gatighan. Why did this happen? Muddled up translations.

If you have read a little bit about the events that happened during the time period when Magellan was in Limasawa and the tour guides spiel at the museum in the island, you will surely notice some faults. I'm not a historian guys so do not take my word for it. I just read a lot. Take  Gines de Mafra's word for it. He visited the island twice! The second one was with Villalobos. So where's the real Mazaua? They say it is in Butuan but then again, only Magellan's crew and the natives living during that time can attest to the truth.

The island is divided into six barangays (village) and together forms the smallest municipality in the region. It is populated by more than 6,000 people as of the 2015 census.

GETTING THERE

We will start our journey from the major entry points of the region, Tacloban City and Ormoc City. From these jump off points, you will need to take a van to Maasin City.  If you are coming from Tacloban, the van ride is three hours and the fare is P280.You can sleep over in one of the hotels here and explore the city. There are so many things to do like:

• Visit the animals at Maasin Zoo
• Check out the Mangrove Forests located in the coastal barangays of Santo Rosario, Pasay, Manhilo
• Hike Danao Forest Park
• Enjoy the view of rolling hills at the Quarry
• Offer a prayer at the Cathedral of Nuestra Señora De Asuncion or the Maasin Cathedral
• Climb over 300 steps to reach the tallest shrine in the country, the Jaleca Hills Shrine to Our Lady of Assumption
• Walk more than 550 steps to visit a church inside a cave at the Monte Cueva Shrine or the Shrine of Our Lady of the Assumption and the Most Precious Blood of Jesus
• Follow the Hanginan trail for two hours and end up at the miraculous St. Francis Xavier Pilgrims Center.
• Take a dip in the Cagnituan/Guinsohotan Falls and explore the stalagmites and stalactites at the subterranean Guinsohotan Cave
• Brush up on your history at Abiera Museo d’Art

On the next day, take an early morning multicab ride to Padre Burgos. The trip will take 30 minutes and set you back P40. Then, catch a one-hour lantsa (boat) ride to Limasawa at around 8 am. We paid P100 one way but little kids are exempted. The rule when traveling to small Philippine islands is the earlier you travel the better because the sea gets rougher in the afternoon. Also, there are no assured rides unless there are many tourists waiting on the shore. You can also talk to the local boatmen and hire an entire banca (fishing boat) for P1,500, depending on the size and sitting capacity.

No one really writes down the ships manifesto and sometimes the boat is overloaded. So be sure to put on your life vest.

UPON ARRIVAL

This is not consistently implemented but each visitor is required to pay a P10 environmental fee at the port of Limasawa.

Once on the island, find a form of transportation unless you want to hike and explore. There are single motorcyles and motorcycles with sidecar for rent. They usually charge P175 per head for a full days shuttling around. We were lucky to talk to the Barangay Captain of Triana and we rented her multicab for the same price. Here's their contact number: 09261304887

WHAT TO WEAR

Dress modestly. This is a small island after all, so locals are conservative and bikinis are rare so if you are scantily clad, the locals would surely stare.


WHERE TO STAY

• Trimulco Traveller's Lodge (09165216846/09261304887) Located at Brgy. Triana and is about 15 minutes walk from the port. The family fan room which fits around 10 people costs P200 per head. They also have airconditioned rooms but who needs one when you have got the freshest air to breathe in?

• Dakdak Beach Resort (09155203660) This place is popular with glampackers and backpackers alike. Located on a strip of white sand beach with lots of broken corals, one can rent a cottage for P700 or just rent a space to pitch a tent at P200. The guest house or family room is at P1,500 per night. Once the resort's gate is built, the owner said they will be collecting a P50 entrance fee per head. Cellphone and power bank charging is P10 per hour while P50 per hour for laptops from 7am to 6pm only.

Entrance from the road

Steps going to the resort

Beach front

Texture of the sand and the waves playing catch with my toes

The cottages and the tents beyond with the public restroom on the right

The photo stops when in Dakdak

The playground

• Eva Shore (09178741302) Located just a stone throw away from the jetty port. When we were there, a beach wedding was being set up. How romantic! Rooms start at P1500 and you get full access to the crystal clear waters and rocky shore.
• Amy's Beach (09568760599) A/C accommodation is P1200.

Facebook and Instagram are filled with posts from people who were frolicking in Limasawa! It is now becoming a popular tourist destination, especially for the Warays. Make sure to book a room in advance and bring food to tide you over if you do not want to sleep in a tent by the seashore or go hungry. I don't mind sleeping by the beach but hunger makes me hangry!

Written on April 16, 2018
Shoutout to Lileth for the hospitality and delicious food from Sogod and Kuya Jeff and Ate Mariz for the free ride!
My sources:
Mazaua: Magellan’s Lost Harbor
Mazaua...the word, the isle, its meaning, its significance, etc.
Limasawa or Mazzaua?